Ketchikan and Sitka in Southeast Alaska

Following our small boat cruise around the Inside Passage of Southeast Alaska, we took a few days to explore the two towns at either end of our route, both popular with cruise ship visitors.

Ketchikan is often the first stop for cruise ships coming from Seattle or Vancouver, and we saw enormous ships during our entire stay in Ketchikan. Our historic hotel, the Gilmore Hotel, was right on the main waterfront street and gave us a great view of the comings and goings there. 

Gilmore Hotel
Ketchikan is known for its colorful shops along Creek Street.
.Cruise ships dominate the waterfront in Ketchikan.
Totem poles dot the landscape in and around Ketchikan, describing historic events, important people, and mythical characters.
Beautiful artwork can be spotted all around Ketchikan!
Ketchikan is a very scenic and walkable small city, even with the cruise ships.

Ketchikan Creek runs through the middle of town and was chock full of pink (humpy) salmon, who were swimming upstream to spawn. Every time we walked along the creek, we were enthralled by the struggle of these fish to swim back to where they were hatched, lay or fertilize their eggs, and then die. The life cycle was in full evidence all around us.

Thousands of pink salmon swimming up Ketchikan Creek
This raggedy-looking salmon is continuing the fight to swim upstream so it can reproduce and die.
The end of the life cycle--lots of dead salmon along the creek

We enjoyed a lot of great meals in town, including at Annabelle’s, Timber and Tide, Fat Stan’s, and the Pioneer Cafe.

The Southeast Alaska Discovery Center was a beautiful museum. We also hopped on the Silver Line bus (for $2 each way) to take us 10 miles out of town to Totem Bight State Historical Park, in a beautiful setting on the coast with lots of totem poles from three indigenous cultures: Tglingit, Haida, and Tsimshian. We also took the bus the other direction to the Saxman Village for more totem poles. 

The Southeast Alaska Discovery Center operated by the U.S. Forest Service, has beautiful artwork, totems and other displays.
Inside the clan house
More totems at Saxman Village
The Saxman Tlingit village south of Ketchikan
The clan house at Saxman Village

After three days in Ketchikan, we took a short ferry to the Ketchikan Airport and headed back to Sitka, where our trip began.

Sitka doesn’t have quite as much cruise ship traffic as Ketchikan, but there are still lots of historic and fascinating places to explore. Once the capital of Russian Alaska, the influence of Russian and Russian Orthodox culture is much more evident here than in the other villages we visited.

Saint Michael’s Orthodox Cathedral was closed, but we could enjoy the exterior, along with the Russian Bishop’s House (and museum, operated by the National Park Service), and beautiful views from the Baranof Castle State Historic Site.

Thie cathedral is small by European standards, but was an important part of life in Russian Alaska.
Climbing to the Baranof Castle site (no castle, but a beautiful view)
One of many beautiful views from the Baranof Castle site
This unassuming building houses a very informative museum about the history of Sitka and its Russian influences.

Sitka’s Burger and Crab Shack gave us the best halibut and chips ever (in my humble opinion), while Hank thought it was even better at Mean Queen. Coldwater Bar and Grill had Matanuska Blueberry Ale, which we had been craving ever since we left Anchorage 2 years ago. And Wild Flour Cafe and Bakery was so good we went back a few times.

Matanuska Blueberry Ale!

While in Sitka, we walked to the Alaska Raptor Center, one of three wildlife conservation centers featured on Alaska Animal Rescue, which we had watched a couple of years ago. We visited the Seward SeaLife Center and the Wildlife Conservation Center on our RV trip, so we completed the trifecta here in Sitka by visiting the Raptor Center, which is dedicated to caring for birds of prey that have been injured. Some are too damaged to be released back into the wild, and they become ambassadors to greet all visitors. Others are rehabilitated and then released, especially a number of bald eagles that we got to see in their Main Flight center.

Bald eagles (top of the display) have a huge wingspan.
A bald eagle that was too injured to be released back into the wild--still beautiful!
Two bald eagles in Main Flight--they will eventually be released back into the wild.
The Raptor Center has a few owls, including this gorgeous snowy owl.
A golden eagle at the Raptor Center

From the raptor center, we walked to the Sitka National Historical Park (for another national park passport stamp), enjoying lots more spawning salmon and totem poles, and learning about the 1804 battle between the Russians and the Tlingit (indigenous) people.

Modern totems on display in the visitor center
More totems. We have enjoyed the variety!

We ended our time in Sitka (and this trip to Alaska) with a glorious walk along Crescent Harbor, watching thousands of salmon make their way upstream to the Indian River, trying to evade the harbor seals who were looking for lunch. Sitka Sound is one of the most beautiful places we saw on our two-week trip through Southeast Alaska.

9 thoughts on “Ketchikan and Sitka in Southeast Alaska”

  1. Love, love, love reading about your adventures in Alaska, Cindy! Thank you for sharing the beautiful photos of your travels.

    Reply
    • We’re so glad you enjoyed the blog and photos, Carlen. It’s fun to remember all the things we did, and it’s wonderful to be able to share with others through this technology.

      Reply

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