Rockies Reboot Part 2-2025: Jasper National Park & Kananaskis Country

We are saddened by all going on in our home city of L.A. right now, but in keeping with our ABOUT US section, we have no ads or politics in our blog–just our travels…So,…here we go.

In June 2024 we had an amazing week at Jasper National Park in Alberta, Canada, viewing grizzly and black bears, elk, bighorn sheep, and bald eagles, and doing gorgeous hikes at Maligne Canyon and the Valley of the 5 Lakes with friends Jacky and Howard.  Just a few weeks after we left, there was a massive wildfire throughout the national park and the town of Jasper. Exactly one year after our 2024 trip, we returned to Jasper. The devastation has been overwhelming, and yet the wildlife and beauty are still there! 

One of our first views of the wildfire in Jasper
The burn area around Whistlers Campground
Clear signs of fire devastation

The drive into Jasper from the Icefields Parkway gave us our first views of the wildfire damage. Even Whistlers Campground where we had reservations sustained pretty massive fire damage. But the elk were still visiting the campground, as they did last year.

Whistlers Campground had lots of fire damage.

When we connected with Howard and Jacky (from Calgary), we joined them in exploring the park to find whatever wildlife chose to be visible along the roads. The first part of our week gave us views of a bald eagle, elk, both male and female, a single black bear, a male bighorn sheep, and some very cute shots of a black bear mama and her two cubs.

A bald eagle at Medicine Lake
A cinnamon-colored black bear near Marmot Basin
Two black bear cubs gave us quite a show along the tram road.
This elk chased the cubs up the tree.
Mama black bear kept her eye on the cubs in between dandelion bites.
The cubs ran up a tree after a male elk moved into their territory.
Is it safe to come down yet?
Rocky mountain bighorn sheep

Now that we have e-bikes, we had to take them out for a spin in Jasper National Park. This gave us some different views because there are a fair number of roads that are closed to cars but accessible to bikes. Riding along the Athabasca River and Lake Beauvert (near the Jasper Park Lodge) were gorgeous highlights, though we were continuously reminded of the fire throughout the ride.

Starting our bike ride from the campground
Baby goslings with their geese parents
Lake Beauvert
Jacky, Howard, and Hank pose near the lake.
Fire damage along the Athabasca River
Elk sightings in Whistlers Campground are common.
Elk calves are prime targets for grizzly bears.

We finally saw grizzly bears after several days in Jasper. Notably, a mama and two cubs gave us a great show one morning fairly near our campground.

Grizzly mama and cub #1
Grizzly cub #2

Later in the day when we went back to the same spot, we watched as a male grizzly approached the sow and cubs, and then we viewed the sow and cubs running across the road to get away from the male. What a show!

Mom and cubs just enjoying dinner.
We're not trying to make trouble!
Male grizzly shows up in the meadow.
Mom and cubs run for the hills.

We also ventured up the Jasper SkyTram for a 360 degree view of Jasper and the surrounding mountains and valleys. Though it was sad to see how widespread the fires had been, it was also beautiful to see the Miette and Athabasca Rivers, along with Mount Robson and other beautiful peaks.

Our RVs sure look small from the summit trail.

At the Upper tram station, we were greeted by a marmot, and then climbed most of the way to Whistlers Summit (named for the whistling marmots). We couldn’t go all the way to the summit because of the snow still at the peak. The hike was steep and we weren’t used to the altitude, so we were kind-of relieved that we couldn’t go all the way up (well, I was anyway😊).

A marmot sunning itself at the top of the tram
The view of Jasper town and the nearby lakes and rivers
A steep hike nevertheless gave us beautiful views.
Another gorgeous view, with Mt. Robson in the background

Dinner with Jacky and Howard, Jacky’s aunt and her friend was a delightful time of learning family stories and Jasper stories from two “old-timers!”

This elk didn't mind the burnt forest.
Jacky and Howard, Delores and Sherry
One of the few moose we saw in Jasper

Bear viewing with Howard means getting up early and on the road at 6:45 am, and were we glad we did on our penultimate morning in Jasper! We were the only ones around to watch that same grizzly sow with her two cubs cross the road back to their dandelion-filled meadow. But they hadn’t been there more than two minutes when a different male grizzly came along, and the family once again ran across the road and up a steep hill. We watched as they climbed, rested, played, and climbed again. We heard later that Parks Canada set up a bear trap to capture the sow and put a collar on her so they could track her movements more accurately. No word on whether this has been successful yet.

Crossing the road back to the meadow early in the morning.
And being chased back to the hill by another male grizzly.
The male grizzly who chased the mom and cubs away in the morning.
The bear trap set up to catch and collar the female bear

On the Marmot Basin road, we found our same cinnamon black bear from a few days ago, but she wasn’t alone. Two of the tiniest cubs we’ve ever seen were hiding in the bushes, but came out for a few minutes to follow mom and try eating some grass. We simply cannot get enough of watching these majestic and darling animals in action.

A female black bear keeping a wary lookout while her cubs were hidden in the bushes.
And then the cubs came out--tiny and adorable!
Just to give some perspective on how small the cubs were...

We celebrated our last evening in Jasper with dinner at the Jasper Brewing Company, which thankfully did not burn down (though 1/3 of the town of Jasper did burn last summer).

Howard and Hank--two cool dudes
A male elk hanging out in one of our bear-viewing spots

Next morning, we packed up the RV, headed into town for gas, and then drove back down the Icefields Parkway, as beautiful as ever.  Last summer we spent several days in Banff National Park, but this time, we just drove through and enjoyed its beauty from the road. 

The Icefields Parkway--one of the most beautiful drives we have ever done!
This drive rivals all the beautiful drives in Alaska!

We returned to the Peter Lougheed Provincial Park in Kananaskis Country and found our campsites at Boulton Creek Campground. After barbecuing burgers for dinner, we enjoyed a walk to Lower Kananaskis Lake, and then hopped in the truck to look for bears once again. Good news! The mama grizzly and triplets that we saw here last year were next to the road, all eating a vegetarian meal that evening! We are so happy that all three cubs survived.

Driving Highway 40 into Kananaskis Country--stunning!
Howard and Jacky lead the way into Boulton Creek Campground.
It was warm enough to eat our burgers outside!
At Lower Kananaskis Lake
The grizzly triplets with Mom in June 2024.
The grizzly triplets one year later!

Our trip to the Peter Lougheed Provincial Park was cut short because the G7 Summit was about to take place a few miles up the road, and the security was very tight. But we squeezed in two great bike rides, some bighorn sheep spotting, S’mores roasting over our propane firepit, and on our last morning, the sighting of an enormous male grizzly and a wolf (very close to the road). It was an epic way to end our short stay at Boulton Creek!

Jacky and Howard at the Visitor Centre
S'mores are a camping requirement!
Hank at the gorgeous Upper Kananaskis Lake
Our final bike ride together
A wolf on the side of the road early on our last morning--a thrill for all of us!
And this male grizzly on the road capped off our time at Boulton Creek Campground!

Since we had to leave Boulton Creek Campground after two nights because of the G7 Summit coming up, we moved over to Sheep River Provincial Park and Sandy McNabb Campground–still in Kananaskis Country, but not as high into the mountains.

We enjoyed two hikes along the Sheep River as we wrapped up our time in this part of the Canadian Rockies.

Sheep River Falls
Dyson Falls
Sheep River
The Sheep River near our campground

After our terrific experiences in Jasper and Kananaskis, we traveled to Waterton Lakes National Park and Glacier National Park (together the International Peace Park). That will be our next blog. Thanks as always for reading!

At the Sheep River

10 thoughts on “Rockies Reboot Part 2-2025: Jasper National Park & Kananaskis Country”

  1. We had a great time sharing this part of your trip with you guys.
    Great wildlife viewing, biking and hiking. Of course the great conversation, happy hour and meals are right up there too.
    Until next time……..

    Reply
    • I really liked that last shot of the two of us–our friend Howard took that as we walked along the river. Such a beautiful place. Thanks for reading, Peggy!

      Reply

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